White’s third series has only confirmed the set-jetting trend as a global travel phenomenon, and viewers who like what they see flock to book experiences similar to those seen on screen. “The White Lotus Effect is working – it has been very successful,” says Pichaya Saisaengchan, Director of Amazing Thailand.
“It’s like a documentary for Thailand tourism. Everything we want to showcase is in the series, like martial arts – Muay Thai is in there. The Buddhism aspect is in there, the meditation. The series makes Thailand look like a perfect retreat for wellness.”
Jet-setting, wellness and luxury are not the only things pulling discerning travellers to the country, though. Thailand has always been home to a brilliantly complex cuisine, but good restaurants were traditionally baked into big chain hotels, while gleaming cocktail bars were perched atop skyscrapers.
Today, however, the whole experience of Thai culture is more integrated.
In Bangkok, a new breed of culinary scene is thriving, with 34 Michelin-starred restaurants now crowned since the guide arrived in 2017.
“There’s no question Thailand has become a much more sophisticated destination,” says virtuoso travel consultant Mike Dwyer from Main Beach Travel. “The food scene in Bangkok is as good as it gets, with no shortage of choice for truly world-class dining experiences. It’s edgy, contemporary and has lots of fusion, like Japanese with Thai.”
Beyond fusion fare, local chefs have drilled down into the regional vernacular. Disciples of Nahm, the category-leading Thai restaurant started by British-born David Thompson, have gone forth and multiplied. Notable stand-outs are Chef Prin Polsuk at Bangkok’s Samrub Samrub, and a trio of chef talent at Charmgang.
Within Thai chef circles, Prin Polsuk’s reputation is legendary. After around eight years as chef David Thompson’s right-hand man at Nahm in London and Bangkok, during which time both received Michelin stars and appeared on almost every best-of list, Polsuk and his wife Mint started doing pop-ups on the side, a venture that eventually became Samrub Samrub Thai.
Here, it’s not just about the eating, it’s about understanding the history, the culture and the passion behind each dish the team sends out.
A typical night starts with a waitperson providing an overview of local and regional Thai ingredients to be included in the meal. A procession of the aromatic ingredients – from busted cardamon and pineapple shoots to native turmeric and wild almonds – are presented like artefacts or high jewellery on a tray, while a crisp Alsatian riesling is poured into perfect glassware ahead of the small-course degustation. Dishes like the prawn dumpling soup with busted cardamom and fermented chilli or the braised abalone, dried bamboo shoots and scallops make Samrub Samrub a must-visit in Bangkok.
Charmgang Bangkok is led by a trio of impressive chefs who also hail from David Thompson’s brigade – Geravich ‘Mew’ Mesaengnilverakul, Atcharaporn ‘Aew’ Kiatthanawat, and Aruss ‘Jai’ Lerlerstkull.
At Charmgang, a young crowd sip tasty cocktails in a warehouse-style room with a long bar and decor that throws a racy, red hue. The fun atmosphere here belies a brilliant menu in which the chefs focus on local ingredients, with new combinations and textures. Expect punchy Thai flavours in dishes like crispy pork hock terrine with pineapple and ginkgo, or barbeque smoked pork with young mango salad, where sour flavours are counterbalanced by crispy shallots and aromatic leaves of cha-muang.
In general, modern Thai cuisine has become a lighter affair – more aromats and more herbs with less emphasis on heavy sauces.