Tropical idyll

Tony and Gaeb have been boating most of their lives and have owned a series of motor yachts of various brands and sizes, including a 105-foot Mangusta, the original Hells Bells, named by its German owner in tribute to AC/DC. “The name just stuck, and we’ve kept up the tradition with our subsequent boats,” Tony says.

Last year Tony, Gaebrielle and their canine companions spent several months aboard Hells Bells, cruising the islands and reefs of the east coast and exploring the Whitsundays, continuing past Townsville.

Recently departing from their home in Newport on Sydney’s Northern Beaches for the journey north, the plan on taking their time – around 50 to 100 nautical miles each leg – with the aim of reaching Townsville, then onward to Port Douglas and Cairns, if the weather cooperates.

In 2022, they bought the original Whitehaven 7000 Flybridge that was built for Whitehaven Managing Director Bruce Scott and his wife Julie – named Komotion, it took years of trying to persuade them to part with their custom-designed and built motor yacht.

“It was the first Whitehaven built,” explains Tony. “The boat is 10 years old now and still has the wow factor. Every time I saw Bruce, I’d tell him I wanted it. Finally, I said, we’re going to Queensland and we want your boat. We knew we’d be able to wear him down eventually.”

After the purchase and renaming to Hells Bells, they carried out upgrades to the electronics, batteries, sunshades and covers.

The couple’s main objective now is to explore the most remote and pristine areas most people don’t venture to.

“We’ve been to incredible places where not too many people get to go, like Pancake Creek and South Arm at Port Clinton near Rosslyn Bay in Queensland, where we spotted a herd of 20 dugongs in a couple of metres of water using our drone.

“You so rarely see these beautiful creatures in the wild. In 2022, we based ourselves in Mackay and went to many of the islands, especially around Keswick and St Bees, which has incredible wrecks and dive sites, and great fishing.”

They also ventured out as far as Hardy Reef, which is infamous for its narrow entrance, known as the waterfall.

“This spot was like our own private oasis,” Tony recalls. “We could dive, wakeboard, foil board and swim.”

Tony and Gaeb are not afraid of long passages, but do say they prefer the more leisurely legs.

“From Mackay, we hopped north between islands – Shaw Island, Thomas, Lindeman, Hamo, Hook. You can always find an inlet where you can shelter from the wind.”

In 2023 they had a break, then returned with gusto in 2024, committing to a six- month voyage from July to December. This time, they’re aiming for Lizard Island, north of Cooktown at the very top of the Great Barrier Reef.

The cruising couple and their friends are currently moored off St Bees Island, located within the Cumberland Island Group, which is known for its koalas, wallabies and diverse bird species and, at this time of year, mother whales and their calves.

“We’ve seen plenty of whales – they come right up close,” Tony enthuses. “They’re a bit of a worry when we’re travelling, though, especially on the longer stints. Whales can dive deep and then pop up next to you, so you need to know where they are.

“That’s why we installed the Garmin forward-facing sonar that enables us to see 300 to 400 feet in advance and depth – it’s worth it! We’re now one of the most tech-savvy boats out there.”

The new sonar is vital for reef cruising as well, he says. “We went to Swains Reefs, Heart Reef, Hardy Lagoon – we can approach at any time and the imagery will give us all the information we need to enter safely.”

With its hydraulic thrusters front and rear, and Twin Disc transmission fitted with Skyhook with three stations, the couple can be confident of easing into a berth whatever the conditions.

“The Seakeeper Gyro was fitted on board, which is great for situations where there’s a lot of swell, particularly around the Kepples and the Percy Islands,” adds Tony. “We’ve been the envy of all our friends.”

For smooth running with no restrictions on long trips, they installed a Victron lithium battery system. The new 5G networking system and satellite dish with Starlink means they’re never out of range and can keep in touch with their civil engineering business.

Their boat is equipped with all the toys, as well as a tender that the dogs like to leap into fearlessly – otherwise, if they can’t wait, in calm waters they paddle to shore.

Unfortunately, the start of this trip has been somewhat blighted by strong winds. “In 2021 we had near-perfect conditions,” recounts Tony. “At the moment, it’s 20 knots southeast every day – just relentless winds and wild seas. When the southeast winds blow, you have to hide on the north side of the islands. It’s good for yachties, but for motor yachts, it’s a helluva lot of rock and roll!

“From Rosslyn Bay to Marble Island, the winds were horrendous,” he continues. “We had to tuck in behind Marble Island, but it eased by the time we made it to Scawfell Island. The weather has affected the fishing too. We usually catch Spanish Mackerel, but we haven’ caught anything this time. We did see some whales, a mother and her calf were right next to us, which is always awesome.”

Their plan is to return to shore in Mackay in the next few days to reprovision and then head out for 20 days on an itinerary that includes a brief stay at Coral Sea Marina, Airlie Beach, then over to Hamilton Island, where the ladies will play golf on Dent Island.

“Hamo is a little bit of luxury for a few days before we head north,” Tony says. “There are a few little islands around there worth visiting – Brampton isn’t protected, but there are some great beaches. Goldsmith Island, part of Smith Islands National Park, has several pretty and protected anchorages.

“Then there’s Thomas Island, which has a few yachts heading up for Race Week, but it’s not crowded. We’re looking forward to chilling out, snorkelling and enjoying some sunshine and, hopefully, some fish!”

From there, the Derhams and their friends plan to track 100 nautical miles north to Townsville via Gloucester Passage.

“Townsville is the pick of the bunch for us,” says Tony. “The people, the restaurants, the swimming pool and marina, and there’s an amazing dive site called the Museum of Underwater Art (MOUA).

“[MOUA] is filled with 20 Reef Guardian sculptures by international artist Jason deCaires Taylor, which we’re absolutely going to dive this time.”

Located on John Brewer Reef, the MOUA includes dozens of underwater art installations, including the Coral Greenhouse, which holds the Guinness World Record for the largest underwater art structure, and the Ocean Sentinels and Ocean Siren.

“We’ll stay around Magnetic Island for a week, diving and fishing, then back to Townsville for provisions, then it’s on to Orpheus Island via John Brewer Reef and Lodestone Reef. We may also snorkel around the giant clams inside Orpheus Island, which have been grown by James Cook University.

“It’s usually good fishing between Pelorus Island and Orpheus. It’s only 20 miles to the reef, so we can find shelter in case the weather turns.”

From there, it’s all new to these daring boaties, who’ll be armed with the Allan Lucas guide Cruising the Coral Coast, considered the bible for coastal cruisers. They’ll cruise steadily northward to Dunk Island, Cairns, Yorkeys Knob and then Port Douglas for a month of reef fishing and diving.

“After that, if the weather’s perfect, we’ll head to Cooktown, then plan carefully how to get to Lizard Island. It depends, the winds have definitely been challenging.

“From Cooktown to Lizard Island is around 100 nautical miles, so we have to be mindful of fuel and provisions, as well as mechanical issues. Lizard is the only safe anchorage if the wind gets up as there’s nothing on shore – just national park.”

The ultimate goal, aside from having fun and relaxing, catching and eating coral trout and red emperor, is to dive the Ribbon Reefs around 25 to 30 nautical miles off Lizard Island. “We’re not put off,” the ever-ebullient Tony assures us.

“Even if the weather is off, we’re happy. As they say, a bad day on the water is better than being stuck on land.”

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