Solomon sublime
With stunning scenery, myriad islands, spectacular diving, and fascinating cultural dynamics, the Solomon Islands make for a superb cruising and charter destination – especially when your home for the intrepid journey is the 53-metre charter yacht Mischief 1.
Written by Captain Mike Hein
23 September 2024
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Picture yourself amidst the azure waters of the Solomon Islands, where lazy days and lively adventure mix to create the ultimate yachting holiday. Now, picture yourself on the perfect yacht. It’s a match made in heaven or – as in our case – made in the Baglietto shipyard in Italy. The yacht was Mischief 1, and the adventure an Ahoy Club charter. Having visited over 65 countries, this voyage was a long-awaited endeavour both for me and our intrepid crew.
The Solomon Islands, nestled approximately 1,000 nautical miles northeast of Australia, consist of six major islands and over 900 smaller ones. Honiara, the capital, proudly gained independence as a republic in 1978. The region holds a significant place in history, with the famous Battle of Guadalcanal fought between Japanese forces and American troops during World War II. Today, it beckons with the allure of thrilling dive wrecks, including the renowned White Beach, which we had the privilege of exploring.
Our bridge team eagerly anticipated crafting an itinerary that would exceed the expectations of our seasoned charter guests, and so we meticulously planned our route through this Melanesian paradise, utilising a comprehensive toolkit of navigation resources, including everything from Google Earth and the trip-planning app Bon Voyage to notes courtesy of Giles Smith, captain of Helios 3.
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The charter offered the perfect opportunity for our deck team to reconnect with traditional coastal navigation methods, radar, and sounder technology, as we yearned for sonar capabilities. While the electronic aids were indispensable, they were not infallible. Nevertheless, they collectively enabled us to venture into numerous unique locations, making every moment of the voyage a treasured memory.
What’s more, our seasoned yachting enthusiasts displayed a remarkable adventurous spirit. When our yacht encountered water too shallow for passage, they eagerly embraced tender excursions for closer exploration of pristine beaches, coral reefs, and picturesque villages along the way.
We were also fortunate to have Sunga Boso, an experienced divemaster from Munda, as our invaluable guide. His wealth of local knowledge and genuine camaraderie with the locals we encountered along the way enhanced our journey significantly. He expertly negotiated the anchorage fees, landing fees, and excursion charges with property owners, ensuring a smooth experience that was culturally enriching.
Navigating these waters was no small feat, with our anchoring depth often exceeding 40 meters due to the island’s vertical reef systems. Our intention was to travel during daylight hours, however, nature’s occasional squalls and strong currents demanded adjustments to our well-laid plans. Thanks to our forward-thinking approach and contingency options, we were always prepared for the unexpected, ensuring the safety and enjoyment of all on board.
The Solomon Islands offer a wealth of treasures just waiting to be discovered as long as you’re prepared for the navigational challenges.
Nggela Island boasts Tulaghi Harbour, a tranquil overnight anchorage, and its well-lit leads make it easily accessible at night, providing a safe harbour for weary seafarers. Mischief 1 chose the southern route to the picturesque Roderick Bay instead in order to visit both Chief John Ruka and the iconic Pacific Adventurer shipwreck, which ran aground on Mid Reef in Sandfly Passage and provides a unique snorkelling, zip line, and diving adventure.
Buena Vista Island, located to the north of Nggela, offered its own intrigue. Local dynamics with Chief Alfred and various land disputes played out within the village, and we met various individuals vying for influence. Nearby Seu Island – where we anchored stern-to to a couple of palm trees and set up a beach BBQ, volleyball games, and shore excursions for our guests and crew – captured a very special place in our hearts.
The reefs, which turned out weren’t exactly where the charts indicated, revealed their secrets under the daylight sun – navigating here in darkness is therefore not recommended. A thrilling drift dive in the passage on Mangalonga Island led us to Maravagi Resort.
The Russell Islands, located just west of Guadalcanal, were another spot that quickly became a love affair after we anchored near the renowned White Beach and met Chief Basil. We also made nighttime entries to Mbanika Island from the east and Kilomolent Bay from the west before our journey took us to Folau, Ta, Mbutata Island, and Karumoulun Island, where we were treated to traditional dances and village visits.
Our encounters with the landowners and village chiefs helped us understand the local hierarchy – for example, we met Chief John Sitto, who held the highest influential position within the Russell Islands.
Our voyage led us on to the northern tip of Santa Isabel Island, where we explored both the mesmerising Kologilo Passage and the interior of Bates Island. From there, it was a hop and a visit to Wagina Island. Naru Island provided an excellent anchorage as well as snorkeling.
Our remarkable voyage on Mischief 1 captured the very essence of adventure, unveiling hidden treasures and inspiring vistas of the Solomon Islands.
Each stop along the way revealed unique cultural insights, enchanting waters, and stunning natural wonders. It ended not with a sense of sorrow but with growing anticipation of future voyages to explore these idyllic waters further. What awaits you is the perfect combination of lazy days and lively adventure – the ultimate yachting holiday, in fact.
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